CAPSICUM, BRINJAL AND POTATO CURRY

Capsicum, Brinjal and Potato Curry

CAPSICUM, BRINJAL AND POTATO CURRY

Serves 6

Time Required: 45 minutes

Ingredients

1/2 kg small Brinjals cut into halves,

3 potatoes peeled and chopped into quarters,

2 capsicums cut into quarters,

3 tablespoons coconut paste,
3 onions chopped,

2 tablespoons coriander leaves,

4 cloves,

6 or 8 whole pepper corns,

1 teaspoon cumin seeds,

½ teaspoon turmeric powder,

2 tablespoons chillie powder,

3 tablespoons tamarind juice,

3 tablespoons oil,

Salt to taste
Heat oil in a pan and fry the cloves, pepper corns and cumin seeds for a minute. Add the onions and sauté till golden brown. Add the brinjals, capsicums and potatoes and all the other ingredients and mix well. Add 2 cups of water and cook covered till the potatoes and brinjals are cooked. Simmer till the gravy thickens. Serve with rice or chapattis or rotis.

STUFFED SERPENT GOURD CURRY

STUFFED SERPENT GOURD OR SNAKE GOURD CURRY
This is a typical Anglo-Indian dish, where ground seasoned beef or lamb / mutton is stuffed in hallowed out segements of serpent gourd, then simmered in a slightly spiced gravy sauce. It goes well with either white steamed rice or ant flavoured rice. Tastes yummy
1 kg beef or mutton mince
1 medium sized snake gourd ( scrape it slightly)
3 medium sized onions chopped
3 large tomatoes pureed
½ cup coconut paste
A small bunch of coriander leaves chopped
2 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
3 teaspoons chilly powder
1 teaspoon spice powder
2 teaspoons coriander powder
½ teaspoon tumeric powder
Salt to taste
2 green chilies chopped
3 tablespoons oil.

Wash the snake gourd, remove the inside and cut into 2 inch pieces. Marinate the mince with a teaspoon of chilly powder, tumeric powder, a little salt and some chopped coriander leaves. In a pan heat the oil and fry the chopped onions till golden brown. Add the ginger garlic paste and sauté for some time. Add the chilly powder, coriander powder, spice powder, green chilies, coconut and salt and fry for a few minutes .Add the tomato puree and fry till the oil separates from the masala. Now add 2 cups of water and bring to boil. Meanwhile stuff the snake gourd rings with the marinated mince. Pack each ring tightly so that the mince does not fall out. Slowly drop the stuffed snake gourd pieces into the boiling curry and cook on low heat till the gravy is sufficiently thick and the mince is cooked. Garnish with chopped coriander leaves. Serve hot with coconut rice or plain rice.

ANGLO-INDIAN STYLE MUTTON DO-PIAZA also known as Double Onions Mutton Curry or Twice the Onions Curry

ANGLO-INDIAN STYLE MUTTON DO-PIAZA also known as Double Onions Mutton Curry or Twice the Onions Curry

Dopiaza Mutton or Chicken Dishes were very popular in Anglo-Indian homes in Calcutta and across Bengal. Do Piaza when translated literally means “two onions,”. This means that the Do Piaza Curry is prepared with almost double the quantity of onions as compared to a normal Meat or chicken curry. In a Dopiaza Curry, half the quantity of the onions are added raw while cooking the curry and the remaining onions are fried and added to the dish at the end.  The prominent flavour of onions gives a slight sweet taste to the curry.

 

Serves 6           Time required: 1 hour

Ingredients

½ kg Mutton

4 large onions sliced

1 large tomato chopped

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoon chillie powder

1 teaspoon ginger garlic paste

1 teaspoons coriander powder

1 teaspoon all spice powder or garam masala powder

2 tablespoons lime juice

Salt to taste

3 tablespoons oil

2 green chillies sliced

2 cloves

2 cardamoms

2 one pieces of cinnamon

2 tablespoon curds / yoghurt

 

Marinate the mutton with chillie powder, ginger garlic paste, coriander powder, spice powder / garam  masala powder and salt and keep aside for 1 hour.

Heat the oil in a suitable pan or pressure cooker and sauté half of the onions till golden brown. Remove and keep aside.

In the same pan add the marinated meat along with the bay leaves, green chillies, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom.  Fry on low heat for about 5 minutes. Add the remaining sliced onions, chopped tomato, curds and mix well. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Now add 2 glasses of water and mix well. Cook covered on low heat for 1 hour (or pressure cook for 15 minutes) till the mutton is tender and the gravy is quite thick. Now add the fried onions and mix once. Remove from heat.

Garnish with Chopped Coriander leaves if dersired. Serve with Rice or chapattis.

 

Note: Beef or Chicken can also be used instead.

SPECIAL FEATURE – FOOD LOVERS MAGAZINE WINTER 2015

Preserving Colonial Flavours

Bridget White-Kumar, author of six Anglo-Indian cookbooks, reflects on culture and tradition from the Colonial Anglo-Indian Era.

I hail from a charming little mining town called Kolar Gold Fields, in the erstwhile Mysore State, now a part of Karnataka. I was born into a well-known Anglo-Indian family in KGF, tracing our roots back to British, Portuguese and Dutch ancestry. The Kolar Gold Mines were owned and operated by the British mining firm of John Taylor & Sons for almost a century. Four generations of my family lived and worked in the KGF Mines. The town had an old-world bonhomie about it, and was known for its affectionate and warm people. It was unique in its secular and egalitarian society. KGF was known as ‘Little England’ due to its colonial ambience, and European and Anglo-Indian population. Our lives were greatly influenced by the culture and ways of the Raj. There was no dearth of British goods in the 1940s and 50s. Goods were imported from England and sold through The English Ware House, Spencer’s Stores and various clubs in KGF. For as long as I can remember, there was always a good supply of Kraft Cheese, Tuna Fish, Polson’s Butter, Colman’s Mustard, Sardines, Baked Beans, Jams, Jellies and Quaker Oats, in our home.

Our food habits were typically Anglo-Indian. Breakfast was normally a bowl of porridge, toast with butter, jam and eggs. Sundays saw sausages, bacon or ham on the table. Lunch was a typical Anglo-Indian meal consisting of steamed rice, beef curry with vegetables, ‘pepper water,’ and a vegetable side-dish. Dinner was always dinner rolls with a meat dish; it was an unwritten rule that no one ate rice at dinnertime. We ate beef or mutton every day, fish invariably on Wednesdays and Fridays, and either Pork, Chicken or Duck on Sundays.

 

quote1(1)  My mum made asimple and delicious dessert, Bread and Butter Pudding, practically every Sunday. She followed an old handwritten recipe that was handed down to her from her grandmother. It was real comfort food; on a cold rainy night, I still feel nostalgic for my mum’s warm Bread Pudding. quote2(1)

My mum was an exceptional cook; even simple dishes tasted delicious when she cooked them. She was versatile and imaginative in the kitchen. She would improvise and turn out the most delicious curries with whatever ingredients were on hand. Our Ayah would grind the masalas for the curry on the grinding stone; in those days everything was prepared fresh and from scratch. Ready-made curry powders were unheard of. And since we had no gas or kerosene stoves back then, every dish was cooked over a wood-fired stove, which only added to the wonderful taste!

Lunch on the weekends were special. Saturday lunch was invariably Mince Ball Curry, Saffron-Coconut Rice and Devil Chutney. On Saturdays, we only had half-days at school, so we were back home by 12.30 pm, ravenously hungry and we’d be assailed by the delicious aromas of mum’s cooking even before we reached our gate.

 

Cauliflower Foogath

The mince for the Ball Curry, had to be just right. The meat was brought fresh from the Butcher Shop, cut into pieces, washed and then minced at home. Like every Anglo-Indian family, we had our own meat-mincing machine, which was fixed to the kitchen table. The freshly ground meat from the machine was then mixed with the required ingredients, shaped into even balls, then slowly dropped into the boiling gravy and left to simmer in a rich coriander and coconut sauce. The curry was famously known as ‘bad-word curry.’ The word ‘ball’ was considered a bad word in those days, and family elders wouldn’t dare utter it for fear of committing a sin.

The Saffron or Yellow Coconut Rice was always prepared with freshly squeezed coconut milk and butter. Like the meat mincer, the coconut scraper was another important appendage of the Anglo-Indian kitchen, fixed firmly to the other side of the kitchen worktable. Sometimes, two fresh coconuts would be broken and grated for the Coconut Rice. The grated coconut had to be soaked in hot water and the thick milk extracted. For every cup of rice, twice the quantity of coconut milk was added – a little more would make the rice ‘pish pash’ or over-cooked, and a little less would leave the rice under-cooked. The raw rice and coconut milk would then be simmered with ghee or butter, saffron, bay leaves and a few whole spices of cinnamon, cardamom and cloves till the rice was cooked perfectly.

 

A recipe book from the early 20th Century, handed down to Bridget from her mother.

My favourite dessert was Bread and Butter Pudding. My mum made this simple and delicious dessert practically every Sunday. She followed an old handwritten recipe that was handed down to her from her grandmother. It was real comfort food; on a cold rainy night, I still feel nostalgic for my mum’s warm Bread Pudding.

The Anglo-Indian community has a long history that can be traced back to the early part of the 16th Century, to the advent of the Portuguese, Dutch and Spanish, who came to India to trade in spices. Towards the latter half of the 18th century, the British made their presence felt with the establishment of the East India Company. With inter-marrying, a new multi-racial community came into existence, which evolved into the Anglo-Indian community.

quote1(1)  In a world fast morphing into a Global Village, many of the old traditional colonial dishes are not prepared in Anglo-Indian homes, as recipes have died with the older generation who cooked with intuition and memory rather than from written notes. quote2(1)

 

Anglo-Indian cuisine therefore evolved over many hundred years as a result of reinterpreting a quintessentially western cuisine by assimilating ingredients and cooking techniques from all over the Indian sub-continent. Thus a new contemporary cuisine came into existence making it truly ‘Anglo’ and ‘Indian’ in nature; neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinct flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the new colonial population.

The British did not like Indian food and taught their khansamas to prepare dishes from their own hometowns. However, over a period of time, a few local ingredients were added to the dishes, and they experimented with making puddings and sweets using local ingredients. Their soups were seasoned with cumin and pepper, roasts were cooked in whole spices like cloves, pepper and cinnamon, and rissoles and croquettes flavored with turmeric and spices. Mulligatawny Soup, Meat Jalfraze, Devilled Beef and Pork were some of these early innovations.

 

Anglo-Indian Cuisine is a gourmet’s delight mostly because it makes use of spices like pepper, bay leaves, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Indian garnishes like chillies, cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic, and vinegar are also added in moderation. Yogurt and milk are used in certain preparations to offset pungency. Many dishes have rhyming alliterative names like Doldol, Kalkal, Ding-Ding and Posthole! The very nomenclature of these dishes is unique and original, and synonymous only with the Anglo-Indian community.

However over a period of time, Anglo-Indian cooking became more Indian than British and more regional. Local ingredients and flavours of a particular region were incorporated in the dishes while the basic ingredients remained the same throughout the country. Coconut-based curries were popular in Anglo-Indian dishes in the south, while mustard oil and fresh water fish were popular ingredients in the Anglo-Indian dishes of Calcutta and West Bengal. And a strong Mughlai influence seeped into Anglo-Indian dishes cooked in Lucknow and parts of North of India. But today, in a world fast morphing into a Global Village, many of the old traditional colonial dishes are not prepared in Anglo-Indian homes, as recipes have died with the older generation who cooked with intuition and memory rather than from written notes. With the intention of preserving those authentic tastes and flavours, I have published six recipe books exclusively on Anglo-Indian cuisine. This personal collection of recipes was compiled with the intent of reviving the old tastes of the colonial era, and thereby preserving the culinary culture and heritage of the Anglo-Indian Community.

Photography by Krishanu Chatterjee
Posted: January 6, 2017

A SIMPLE ANGLO-INDIA LUNCH – White Steamed Rice, Simple Fried Fish, Raddish and Dol Curry (Red Lentils), Plain Pepper Water, Beans Foogath and Tomato Sambal

A SIMPLE ANGLO-INDIA LUNCH – White Steamed Rice, Simple Fried Fish, Raddish and Dol Curry (Red Lentils), Plain Pepper Water, Beans Foogath and Tomato Sambal

PLAIN WHITE STEAMED RICE

Serves 6       Time required: 45 minutes

Ingredients

1 cup raw rice

2 cups water

A pinch of salt

Wash the rice and soak in 2 cups of water and a pinch of salt for 15 minutes. Place on heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat and cook on low heat till done and all the water is absorbed. Cover and allow to stand  for 15 minutes before serving. This is the standard plain steamed rice eaten every day. Serve with any curry, dhal or pepper water.

SIMPLE FRIED FISH

Serves 6     Time required: 45 minutes

Ingredients

8 or 10 slices of any good fleshy fish

2 teaspoons chillie powder

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

Salt to taste

Oil for frying

Wash the fish and marinate with the chillie powder, salt, and turmeric powder for about 15 minutes.

Heat the oil in a flat pan and shallow fry the pieces about 4 at a time till nice and brown on both sides.  Serve with bread and chips.

This is also a good accompaniment to pepper water and rice.  It could also be served as a snack. (For a more crispy fish, coat the fish slices with a little semolina or rice flour)

RADISH AND DOL (RED LENTILS / DHAL) CURRY 

Serves 6      Time Required:1 hour

Ingredients

1 cup Red Lentils or Masoor Dhal

4 long white radish peeled and cut into 2 inch piece

2 teaspoons chillie powder

1 teaspoon coriander powder

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

1 teaspoon cumin powder

2 tomatoes chopped

1 teaspoon crushed garlic (optional)

Salt to taste

For the seasoning: 1 teaspoon mustard, 2 red chilies broken into bits and a few curry leaves and 1 tablespoon oil.

Wash the Red Lentils / masoor dhal and cook it along with the tomato, chillie powder, coriander powder, cumin powder, turmeric powder, garlic and radish with sufficient water in a pressure cooker.  When done open the cooker, add salt and some more water and mix well.

To Temper the Dal Curry:

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in another suitable pan and add the mustard, broken red chilies and crushed garlic and fry for some time. When the mustard starts spluttering, pour in the cooked dhal and mix   well. Serve with rice

PLAIN PEPPER WATER

A simple and easy recipe to prepare the classic Anglo-Indian  Pepper Water. Pepper Water is an important dish on the Anglo-Indian lunch table and is invariably prepared many times a week. Pepper water can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days without spoiling due to the tamarind used in its preparation.

Serves 6     Time required: 30 minutes

Ingredients

2 large tomatoes chopped

1 teaspoon ground black pepper / pepper powder

1 teaspoon chillie powder

1 teaspoon cumin powder

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

½ teaspoon coriander powder

Salt to taste

½ cup tamarind juice extracted from a small ball of tamarind

or 1 teaspoon tamarind paste

Cook all the above ingredients with 3 or 4 cups of water in a suitable vessel on high heat till it boils. Reduce the heat and cook on low heat for about 10 minutes. Temper the Pepper Water, as follows

To temper the Pepper Water: Heat 2 teaspoons oil in another vessel, add a teaspoon of mustard seeds. When they begin to splutter add a sliced onion, a few curry leaves, two broken red chilies and a teaspoon of chopped crushed garlic and sauté for a few minutes, till the onions turn light brown. Pour the pepper water into the seasoning and mix well. Turn off the heat.  Serve hot with rice and any meat side dish.

Note: The pepper water can be prepared by using fresh red chilies cumin seeds coriander seeds, peppercorns ground in a mixer instead of the powders.

BEANS FOOGATH (STIR FRY BEANS)

Serves 6     Time required: 30 minutes

Ingredients

½ kg string beans chopped finely

3 tender carrots chopped into small pieces

½ cup grated coconut

3 red chilies broken into bits

¼ teaspoon mustard seeds

A few curry leaves

Boil the chopped beans and carrots for about 5 minutes with some water.  Strain and keep aside.  Heat oil in a pan and add the mustard seeds. When they splutter add the red chilies and curry leaves and fry for a few seconds. Now toss in the boiled beans.  Add salt and coconut and mix well. Stir-fry for a few minutes and then take down.

TOMATO SAMBAL

Ingredients

2 big tomatoes chopped

3 green chilies chopped

½ teaspoon cumin powder

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 medium size onion chopped

Salt to taste

A pinch of sugar

Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions and garlic for a few minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, cumin powder, salt, sugar and green chilies and fry till the tomatoes are reduced to a pulp. Grind in a blender. Season with mustard seeds, red chilies and curry leaves.

 

CHICKEN GIZZARDS AND LIVER PEPPER FRY – AN OLD ANGLO-INDIAN FAVOURITE

Chicken Liver pepper fry 3

 

CHICKEN GIZZARDS AND LIVER FRY

Serves 6    Preparation Time 45 minutes

Ingredients

½ kg chicken gizzards and liver cut into pieces

2 large onions sliced finely

2 or 3 teaspoons pepper powder

2 green chillies slit

Salt to taste

3 tablespoons oil

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

Rinse the chicken gizzards and livers well.

Boil them with a little water and salt till soft. Drain and keep aside

Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions till golden brown.  Add the cooked gizzards and liver together with the slit green chillies, turmeric powder, pepper powder and salt and keep frying on low heat till dry and brown. Serve as a snack or with bread or rice

OX TONGUE ROAST

Serves 6   Preparation and cooking Time 45 minutes

Ingredients

1 Large Ox tongue

1 big onion sliced

4 red chilies broken into bits

1 teaspoon whole pepper corns

2 cloves and 2 small pieces of cinnamon

2 tablespoons oil

Salt to taste

Tongue Roast  NewWash the tongue well and then pressure cook it with 2 cups of water and a little salt till tender letting some soup remain. Open the pressure cooker and remove the boiled tongue. Let it cool for some time. When it is a little cold remove the white skin from the tongue and put it back into the open cooker and add the oil, onion, red chilies pepper corns, cloves and cinnamon and a little more salt.  Mix well.  Simmer on low heat till all the soup dries up and the tongue is nicely brown all over .Cut into slices and arrange on a plate along with the residue. Serve hot or cold with mashed  potatoes and bread. You can make very delicious sandwiches with tongue roast as filling.

COOKING CLASSES IN BANGALORE BY BRIDGET WHITE-KUMAR

SIMPLE INDIAN DISHES AND ANGLO-INDIAN CUISINE

Bridget White Anglo-Indian Recipes

Bridget White Anglo-Indian Recipes

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